‘Presepi’ — intricate and often wildly imaginative dioramas of the birth of Christ — are a highlight of the Italian holiday season. Here’s where to see them at their most magical in the capital
The evergreen appeal of this symbol of the Eternal City — and where to see it at its most splendid
An old convent, the former home of Donizetti and an eco-wellness urban resort are among the Eternal City’s most exciting places to stay this season
The woman behind two of the chicest places to stay on Lake Como on her top destinations for food, shopping and culture in the Italian capital
Four of the best spots for an artisanal beer in and around the Eternal City
All hail the ‘king of Roman cuisine’, which is at its most glorious in the winter
A true gourmet’s guide to dining in the Eternal City
Often overlooked by visitors, this early-20th-century experiment in urban development — all brightly coloured streets, secret green spaces and traditional trattorias — makes for a fascinating diversion from the centre
While not for the faint-hearted, these cheap cuts, known as ‘il quinto quarto’, are some of the most mouthwatering dishes on the menu in the Eternal City
It might not be the most bike-friendly of cities, but the Italian capital does have its fair share of gorgeous — and safe — routes
The powerhouse behind the Italian luxury brand’s jewellery collections shares her perfect day in the Eternal City, from morning cappuccino to sunset aperitivo, via Baroque churches and empty back streets
From intimate neighbourhood joints to one of Europe’s most splendid concert halls — via a boat and an old soap factory — here are just a few of the Eternal City’s excellent options for catching some tunes
Every great hotel has its own distinct personality — as amply demonstrated by these six Roman legends. Which one matches the type of traveller you are?
From Audrey Hepburn on the Spanish Steps to 007 on the banks of the Tiber, via Nanni Moretti on his Vespa, this scenic route has something for film buffs of all stripes
Gammarelli in Rome caters to pontiffs and secular tastemakers alike
Embark on these mini-voyages off the Roman coast to islands steeped in myth
These scenic runs in the city’s greenest spaces take in aqueducts, obelisks, stunning views of St Peter’s — and even the odd turtle
Eight explorations of the many sides of the Italian capital, plus one extraordinary example of Cinecittà’s genius for conjuring up far-away, long-gone worlds
Some of Rome’s top bars have created recipes for the FT that capture the essence of their city. Enjoy them at home or order in person if/when you can
Francis Ford Coppola, Susan Sarandon and Martin Scorsese have all been drawn to this tiny film store
Brilliant breaks abound along the coast to the west of the Italian capital — for surfers of all levels
The Eternal City’s best restaurants and watering holes, as recommended by you
From stylish decor, the perfect location and fabulous service, to excellent food and drink, luxury toiletries and more, here are your favourite places to stay in the Italian capital
We want to know where and how you relax in our FT Globetrotter cities. Share your favourite spa, beauty/wellness centre or luxury hotel hideaway and your top treatments
From panettone to tiramisu, many ‘classics’ are in fact recent inventions, as Alberto Grandi has shown
The populist politician on working with Draghi, his hardline stance on immigration — and his conversion to believing in a strong EU
Tired trattorias used to be the order of the day on Piazza Navona — until the lockdown prompted two brothers to reinvent their own as a cooler offering that appeals to the locals
The pandemic has caused visitors to stay away too, pushing rentals and sales down
The creative director at one of France’s most venerable fashion houses invites us into her Italian home
No one can be prepared for the preposterous perfection of Italy’s capital
From the streets of Florence to the Amalfi coast, the usual summer tourism deluge has become a drought
Bureau chief James Politi loves the city’s food markets and parks — if only the bins were emptied and the buses bearable
An expert dissection of the trends that account for the Italian League’s revival
The author and law professor visits the places in the Eternal City where a Nazi on the run sought refuge
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